Beauty

HAIR COLOUR HOW-TO

Jun 06 12:22am
Is it time for a change?

Few beauty treatments make you feel as fabulous as a new hair hue. Whether you want lighter locks or a darker 'do, Emily Strong shows you how to get your perfect shade, at home or in the salon

Make your choice
Before you commit to colouring, decide on the type of tone you're looking for. Although colour is a matter of personal preference, it's best to take into consideration your complexion and natural hair hue. While anyone can brighten or deepen their colour, too many shades lighter or darker than normal may make you look washed out or sallow. The simplest solution is to start with a subtle difference before taking the plunge with a dramatic shade. Not ready for a complete change? Try intensifying your current look with rich tones or highlighting it with vibrant pieces for a modern take on your everyday 'do.

WHEN TO GO DARK
After a summer of beach-blonde tresses, a switch to a deeper tone will update your style and fortify frazzled hair. Brunette locks can transform your look, causing fine hair to appear thicker and making teeth seem instantly whiter.

At home
When shopping for your colour, look at the hair swatches or charts on the packet, rather than the model shot on the front of the box or the name of the product. This will help you ascertain by how many shades it will alter your hair hue, based on your current colour. It's also important to consider your hair length and texture at this stage. "If your hair is longer than shoulder-length or very thick, you will need to purchase two packs of the colour to achieve the best colour result and coverage," advises Bronwyn Fraser, national education manager for L'Oreal Australia.

Unsure about what product to choose? Boxes marked "permanent" are just that - long-lasting shades that won't wash or fade out. Semi-permanent colours last from six to eight weeks and will deepen your hue, but they can't lighten it. Temporary tones will last up to eight washes so they're perfect for a short-term shade or a shine injection.

Prior to applying the colour, read the instructions thoroughly. Follow them strictly, then wait patiently for your new shade to develop. "The actual colour of the product while it is developing on your hair is not always indicative of the final result," explains Fraser. "If you want to check on the product's progress, wipe a few strands with paper towel to reveal the colour underneath." Remember that your hair will always appear one or two shades darker when it's wet, so make sure you blow-dry first to observe the final colour result.

At the salon
Ask your stylist for darker options to complement your skin tone and eye colour. "This season, brunettes can intensify their colour with a rich chocolate shine," suggests Anthony Nader of Raw Hair. Deepen grown-out blonde "with pieces of toffee browns and caramel, or add texture to brown hair with bronze or copper-toned highlights", he advises.

And don't forget to plan ahead. "Depending on how much darker than your natural colour you go, you will need professional touch-ups at least every four to six weeks," recommends Peter Taylor, national education manager for Redken 5th Avenue NYC.

After the colour
Now that your hair is gloriously shiny thanks to your lush new tint, switch to products that will maintain the colour intensity and sheen for as long as possible. Colour-enhancing shampoo and conditioner will brighten your look, while a leave-in protection spray will help to prevent fading when you're out in the elements.

WHEN TO LIGHTEN UP
There's nothing like a burst of blonde to perk you up. champagne, beige and honey hues are flattering and feminine, and while all-over gold isn't for everyone, highlights are ideal for adding warmth and texture to your locks

At home
While becoming blonde in your own bathroom used to be a no-no, contemporary colourants are a lot gentler and easier to use than past products. A simple way to lighten your locks yourself is with a streaking or highlighting kit that will lift your look without committing you to a full head of flaxen tresses.
Alternatively, opt for a shade that's just a little lighter than your current colour for a result that's bright rather than brassy. Remember that you'll have to purchase a permanent colour to lighten your hair as a semi-permanent product can't lift your existing colour, only enrich it.

"Try to stay within two shades of your natural colour as this will be more suited to your skin tone and eye colouring, as well as being easier to maintain," advises Bronwyn Fraser. "Always allow enough time to apply, rinse and style, which usually takes around one to two hours," she adds - a rushed job will not result in a colour to be proud of.

If you're desperate to be blonde, but have black or deep brunette hair, always consult a professional. You'll most likely need salon-strength products, not to mention an experienced colourist, to successfully undertake such a dramatic change.
Remember, too, lighter locks mean more touch-ups to keep your hair looking fresh and fabulous. An all-over colour will require a lot of maintenance, while a sprinkling of blonde highlights will brighten your look without obvious regrowth after a few weeks.

At the salon
Ask your hairdresser for advice on a lighter
look to suit your features, budget and lifestyle. "You need to decide how often you wish to maintain your colour as there are endless choices and techniques available," says Julie Zavaglia, owner of Glow Salon. "Some are more high maintenance than others, and there are various tones of blonde ranging from cool to warm and even pastel shades."

After the colour
Once you've treated your tresses to a lighter, brighter hue, remember to keep them nourished to prevent dryness and brassiness. "Always use shampoos and conditioners that are professionally recommended for colour- treated hair," maintains Zavaglia. "These products are designed not only to condition and cleanse the hair, but also to maintain and lock in the colour," she explains. Concerned that your blonde-specific shampoo looks lilac? Relax. The purple hue works to counteract yellowness and clarify your colour.

Colour-keepers to try:

For daily care: SunSilk Colour Collection Lively Blonde Shampoo and Conditioner (1), $5.99 each
For brightening: ARTec Blondes Color Depositing Moisturizer in White Violet (2), $28.30
For locking in pigment: Lee Stafford Colour Love Treatment (3), $14.95
For repairing damage: Tigi Bed Head Dumb Blonde (4), $22.95
For added intensity: Goldwell Color Glow Treatment Be Blonde (5), $22.50
FOR REVIVING HIGHLIGHTS: Redken 5th Avenue NYC Color Extend Highlight Fuel (6), $25 for a pack of five.

Cheat's guide to colour changes

Ready to update your look, but scared to commit to a new all-over hue?

Try these subtle shade suggestions:

YOUR HAIR IS...

BLONDE - try Sun-kissed apricot or beige highlights
LIGHT BROWN/ DARK BLONDE - try Warm caramel or copper lowlights
DARK BROWN - try A glossy chocolate wash
BLACK - try Shimmering coffee highlights

Do or dye: quick colouring tips

  • Do take images of hair shades you love along to the salon to show your stylist. A picture speaks a thousand words, especially when it comes to colour.
  • Don't panic if you hate your new look. Unlike a bad haircut, a less-than-lovable colour can always be reversed or lightened.
  • Do refresh your in-salon permanent colour by topping it up with a temporary at-home tone every three or four weeks.
  • Don't apply cutting-edge colours over silver hair, unless you want your rich red to wash up pink, and always look for products designed to cover grey hairs, if you have them.

29 Comments Report Abuse
1. eclectic.monkey - Jun 06 11:01pm
You have forgotten to mention us "red-heads". My hair is naturally auburn, and I have the same tone of skin colour. Maybe someday soon, someone somewhere will mention what we people can do to make our hair a different colour without the red shining through? Can be quite frustrating particularly when you spend $200 odd at the salon lightening to a nice platinum colour, that lasts for not even three weeks.
2. wndymansfield - Jun 08 10:04am
I would like to see some more options for grey hair, something like a nice creamy/ coffee colour, other than blond or dark brown, even though I like red, it comes out a really bright red..not a good look for an older woman...and keeping my hair a natual colour (grey) gives me a washed out look
3. chi6s - Jun 08 08:04pm
How do first timers to hair colouring, with black hair get "Shimmering coffee highlights" at home? What is the process of it?
4. mkoinan - Jun 09 12:00am
I went to a salon to make a drastic change and they wrecked my hair and scalp - I almost ended up with first degree burns on my neck from products they used in the salon! I have a much better idea of what my hair and scalp can tolerate.I have gone from platinum highlights to all over platimum - my natural colour is light to medium brown with patches of white hair above my ears. I am happy with the results I have achieved and know how to keep it in top condition, both in appearance and so that i
5. sparkcrockpot - Jun 13 11:24pm
I am allergic to many dyes so I have foils but I also have many grey/whites that bleaching off scalp cannot cover any advise how to colour the silvery grey/white a nice blonde to match the bleached foils only I am not wanting or can change my medium brown base, but the silvery greys make me look older & depresses me terribly, my hairdresser is too scared to try anything other than foils.

To those who can be all over colour be grateful as my life is miserable due to this hair!!
6. sparkcrockpot - Jun 13 11:31pm
I am seriously desperate for a lot more options for silver grey hair, something like a nice creamy/ palest coffee,that will ONLYcolour the silvery greys blending them in .

I am super sensitive to on scalp colours as well can any be lightly painted on the silver/greys only is a question I am sure many Women of today want answered as not all of us want henna or herbal colours that interfere with foiling of the hair.

My hairdressing experiences to date have all been nightmares with too many
7. c0ttencandy2003 - Jun 18 12:02am
I was going to suggest to people that if they are going to go any kind of blonde always go to the hair salon, but after reading about first degree burns I'm not so sure lol. Though from my experience it's best to get a professional to help you. I go to a very expensive hairdresser and so far I haven't gone home crying like previous self and cheap salon experiences.
8. c_lang83 - Jun 18 02:36pm
Expensive does not necessarily mean good. To get a good haristylist, you nedd to shop around, unfortunately. In general I have found that a mid-range priced haristylist does a great job. It's not "cheap and nasty" but nor does it break the bank.
9. belindapearce - Jun 20 09:21am
Best colour I've ever used www.naturstyle.com.au
10. mskdc2004 - Jun 21 07:47pm
I've recently changed my hair colour, from a dark brown/ red to a blue black, but ppl tell me it's too different and that i should change it, but if i put a chocolate brown through would it hold over the blue areas?
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