Clutter-busting projects for hats and boots that make the hallway look terrific.

Coat hooks

Match your coat hooks to pictures of the owners by the door and you'll solve any squabbles over which hook is whose - there's even one for the dog!

You can make these hooks in next to no time. Just trace the house template onto a piece of 12mm MDF and cut out with a jigsaw that's equipped with a fine-toothed blade. Drill pilot holes for a doorknob and a spring toggle, then screw the doorknob in place. Once dry, fix the coat hook to the wall beneath a framed photo using a spring toggle. It's that easy!

Bootbox

Gather your supplies
S1 Saw guide 1700 x 150 x 12mm ply or MDF
S2 Guide base 1700 x 370 x 12mm ply or MDF
A Top/base (2) 1515 x 390 x 15mm plywood
B Back 1515 x 41 Ox 15mm plywood
C Sides/dividers: (5) 340 x 350 x 15mm plywood
D Long rails (2) 40 x 40 x 1355mm blackbutt
E Cross rails: (3) 40 x 40 x 285mm blackbutt
F Legs (4) 40 x 40 x 100mm black butt
G Corner blocks (8) 40 x 40 x 80mm blackbutt

Note: All plywood bench seat components are easily cut from one 24 x1.2m sheet of plywood (see diagram). Blackbutt components can be cut from 2 lengths of 2.4m.

You'll also need:
4 cane baskets (these are from Ikea) ; 10mm of 22mm blackbutt edge veneer; 10 of 10mm diameter x 40mm dowels; orange shellac; wood stain; beeswax finish

Here's how
Step 1
If using baskets of different dimensions, modify the unit's measurements to suit. Set out all the cuts on the plywood as shown in the diagram, allowing for the width of the cut (the kerf). As a power

Step 2
Make a saw guide by gluing and screwing the guide (S1) to the guide base (S2), with two long edges flush. Set the saw blade lo cut 5mm below ihe surface of the sheet, then run it along the edge of the guide. This will give ihe exact gap between the saw blade and the edge of the saw base. To use, place the saw guide on the wanted side of the mark-out line, align the cut edge wilh ihe line, clamp in place, then run the saw along the guide for a perfect cut. Cut all the plywood components to correct size. Keep the guide for future use.

Step 3
Mark a 40mm radius on the front corners of the top and base (A) and the top corner of the back (B). Cut out the curve wilh a jigsaw and fine blade. Clamp the base to your work surface in an upright position. Cut a length of edge veneer long enough to cover the from and sides, and centre it on the front edges. Working from the centre towards the ends, run a hot household iron over the veneer to melt the glue. When it has melted (it only takes a few seconds), it will adhere to the edge as it cools, grabbing tightly. Follow immediately with a soft wooden block to ensure the veneer is well glued.

Step 4
As each ironed piece cools, trim around the edges with a utility knife, pressing the blade flat on the lace veneer surface to avoid digging in. Lightly sand to smooth the edges. Repeat for the side and front edges of the top and the top and side edges of the back, as well as the front edge of the sides and dividers (C).

Step 5
To assemble the box. place the base on the table and glue and screw the back to it. As hardwood ply tends to bulge when screws are driven into its edges, drill clearance holes in the piece being screwed on and a pilot hole, 80 per cent of the screw diameter, into the edge grain.

Step 6
From one end of both the base and back, measure 40, 55, 395, 410, 750, 765, 1105, 1120, 1460 and 1475mm for the position of the dividers. Glue and screw on the 2 sides and the 3 dividers. Finish the box by gluing and nailing on the top, again after predrilling. Punch nails slightly below the surface so the holes can be filled.

Step 7
Use a mitre box and tenon saw to cut the long and cross rails (D, E) and the legs (F) with a square cut at each end. Cut the eight corner blocks (G) with a 45-degree mitre at each end.

Slep 8
A neat way to put the leg assembly together is with dowels. Set out the components and mark across the centre of each joint with a pencil line, identify each corner on both pieces so you don't mix them up. Use a dowelling jig to bore the holes accurately, using a dowelling bit in your drill. Set the depth so you end up with 22mm-deep holes.

Step 9
Apply glue to the dowels and meeting faces of the leg and long rail joints, insert dowels and tap joints together. Join the front and back assemblies with cross rails. Clamp overnight until the glue has set.

Step 10
Place the box on its back, and clamp the leg assembly to the base, centred and flush with the back. Predrill and screw the leg assembly in place. Fill any blemishes and nail holes with matching wood filler.

Step 11
Sand down the unit, working along the grain and dusting off the sawdust. Coat with 2 or 3 coats of orange shellac, rubbing down with worn 400-grit abrasive paper and dusting between coats. This will leave you with a honey coloured sheen. While you are at it mix a little wood stain with the shellac, and paint the four baskets with 2 or 3 coats to build up some colour.

Step 12
Finally, apply a coat of Scott's special beeswax mixture (beeswax, gum turpentine and boiled linseed oil). Apply with a rag and buff immediately wilh a clean rag for a glorious waxed sheen finish. If placing on a polished timber floor, add felt pads under the legs.

Shopping: Blackbutt Armourply, Big River Timbers, (02) 8522 5555. Orange shellac, Mother of Pearl & Sons Trading, (02) 9332 4455. Dried blackbutt timber Home Hardware, 1300 889 449.

Source:Better Homes and Gardens August 2002.