The handles of this entertainment unit are made of driftwood, and the unit is made of pine-veneered particleboard with solid timber edging.

Particle board is strong, easily worked and holds nails and scews well.

Gather your supplies

Part Materials and measurements

A Top/bottom (2) 1786 x 600 x 19mm particle board
B Sides/dividers (5) 600 x 600 x 19mm particle board
C Edge strips (total) 19 x 7mm x 9.2m pine
D Left shelf 600 x 375 x 19mm particle board
E Centre shelves (2) 600 x 560 x 19mm particle board
F Right shelf 600 x 480 x 19mm particle board
G Back 1786 x 624 x 6mm plywood
H Rear beading (total, optional) 12 x 12mm x 4.8m pine/oak
I Drawer sides (6) 550 x 165 x 19mm particle board
J Drawer front/back (6) 228 x 165 x 19mm particle board
K Drawer bottom (3) 550 x 266 x 3mm plywood
L Drawer spacers (2) 40 x 19 x 290mm pine
M Drawer faces (3) 287 x 184 x 19mm particle board
N Right doors (2) 397 x 236 x 19mm particle board
O Centre doors (2) 359 x 276 x 19mm particle board
P Left doors (2) 243 x 185 x 19mm particle board

The particle board is pine veneered and ordered cut into 600mm wide half sheets. The 1220mm wide sheets allow for 600mm wide components as well as the saw cuss.

You'll also need
1.25 x 25mm pins
3 sets of 550mm, bottom fix, self closing drawer slides
10m of iron-on pine veneer
Stains: Feast Watson Prooftint in oak, teak brown, gold teak and cedar
Feast Watson Floorseal
12 of Florentine bronze 50mm flush hinges
Driftwood
6 of magnetic or ball catches.

Note: Check sizes of components against actual unit as it is being built.

Here's how
STEP 1
Cut top, bottom, sides and dividers (A,B) to length by running a circular saw along a straightedge. Measure distance between the edge of the saw blade and the saw base, and mark this distance from the line you want to cut on the piece you want to keep. If the wanted piece is the offcut, you'll need to add the thickness of the blade as well.

STEP 2
While you could edge the particle board with an iron-on veneer, using timber strips glued and nailed to the edge is tougher, and the extra thickness of timber allows the edges to be rounded for a softer look. Measure the edging strips (C) for the ends of the top and bottom, cut to length and pre-drill with a 1 mm bit (drill carefully so you do not snap the thin bit) for 1.25 x 25mm nails, then glue and nail in place. The nails are small, so pre-drilling allows you to start the nails easily without hitting your fingers. Repeat for the other end then the front edges. Repeat for the front edges of the sides and dividers (along the grain).

STEP 3
Cut the left, centre and right shelves (D,E,F) and edge the fronts. Lay the bottom face up on the bench and use an offcut of the solid edging to mark the thickness of the sides and draw a line at each end. Slide the right shelf (D) to just hide the mark and draw a line along the other side of the shelf. Bring in another strip to just hide the line and draw a line to mark the right divider.

STEP 4
Repeat for centre shelf (E) and then left shelf (F) working from the left hand side. Drill three 5mm clearance holes for screws between the divider and side lines, spaced 70mm from front and back and in the centre. Flip board over, and counterbore for screws on the underside.

STEP 5
Apply glue to the bottom edge of a side, then stand it and the bottom against each other, align and drive in centre screw. Check that all is accurate. Add top by nailing as the holes will be much smaller. Check sides and dividers are perpendicular to bottom. Then drill pilot holes and drive in other screws. Repeat for other side and dividers.

STEP 6
Install the shelves by measuring 335mm down from the underside of the top for the top of the left hand shelf, two 100mm openings for the video and DVD shelves and a 400mm opening for right hand shelf. Nail them in from the sides, but use screws when fixing through the internal dividers.

STEP 7
Cut the back (G) to size, then glue and nail on with an even 7mm gap all around. As a optional touch, plane down some 12 x 12mm beading (H) to 7mm square and glue and pin to the rear particle board edges to hide the edge of the back, although when placed against a wall it would be hard to see.

STEP 8
Before making the drawers, check the instructions with your drawer runners as some require 12mm spacing between drawer and each side,
and others 12.5mm. Adjust sizes as necessary. Make three drawers by nailing the sides (I) to the fronts and backs (J). Add the bottom (K). Fit drawer runners to the sides and flush with front.

STEP 9
From the front of the carcass measure back 21 mm and use an offcut of the edging as a spacer above the bottom and drawer dividers. Screw drawer runner in place. Repeat for other side and test fit drawer. Measure 187mm from the bottom and fit a drawer spacer (L). Add runners and spacers for all 3 drawers.

STEP 10
Cut the drawer faces (M) then apply pine iron-one edging to all edges. To apply it, switch an iron to its hottest setting and, starting from one end, run it back and forth over small sections of the veneer at a time to melt the glue, followed immediately with a wooden block so the veneer sticks firmly. Then trim and sand the veneer edges flush. Repeat for the three sets of doors (N,O,P).

STEP 11
Taking inspiration from coloured sands, stain the doors and drawer fronts different timber shades, by mixing timber stain with a low-sheen tung-oil based floor sealer to give a subtle stained finish.

STEP 12
Using 50mm flush hinges, screw the door sets in their openings. These do not require any housing of the leaves and the metal gives the automatic gap. To fit the drawer faces, pre-drill in the drawer fronts, then apply a few spots of hot glue to the back of the face using a hot glue gun, and immediately place it against the drawer front, adjusting it as necessary so you have even gaps all around. The glue will grab within a few seconds. Screw from the back into the drawer faces to secure.

STEP 13
Flip the unit upside down and mark 25mm in from each corner on the underside. Find the half way mark and measure in 25mm. Pre-drill holes in the cabriole legs and glue and screw to the underside making sure the screws do not penetrate the bottom. Then turn the unit over again, sand thoroughly and coat with the floor sealer. Use paint pads to achieve an even finish quickly.

STEP 14
And finally, it's time to have some fun using your driftwood and found bits and pieces to make the handles. Decide which looks best where, then sand the backs flat. Pre-drill clearance holes through the doors, apply glue to the back of the handles and screw in from the back, drilling pilot holes in the wood. Don't tighten too much as driftwood can be weak and may split. Add magnetic or ball catches as needed.

Stockists:
Coastal unit developed and built by Neil Wing.
Veneered particle board, edging and plywood from Mr Ply & Wood, 1800 899 002.
Timber, WarringahTimbers, (02) 9981 3733 or http://www.warringahtimbers.com/
All hardware and finishes for coastal unit, good hardware stores.

Source:Better Homes and Gardens May 2004