This simple backless box will have many uses around the home
and it's so easy to make.

Finished size is height 148mm; length 278mm; width 140mm.

You'll need
Part Material Length

End (2) 150 x 25mm timber, DAR 148mm
Top/bottom (2) 150 x 25mm timber, DAR 240mm
Rail (1) 50 x 25mm timber, DAR 240mm

You'll also need
40mm nails (12); PVA adhesive; wood putty; 50mm x 8 gauge countersunk screws (2) or hollow wall anchors.

Tools
Pencil
Tape measure
Carpenter's square
Utility knife
Hand saw or circular saw
Vice
Plane
Hammer
Nail punch
Portable power drill (for installation)
Drill bit: 5mm (for installation)
Screwdriver (slotted or cross-head)
Spirit level

Here's how
Cutting out
1. Mark out the required lengths on the timber (see diagrams below), leaving 5mm between each part for the saw cut and for cleaning back. Use the square to square the lines across the face and around all sides of the timber. Check that the lines are square and, when you're satisfied, retrace the lines using a utility knife to cut the top fibres. This reduces the breaking out of fibres on the underside of the cut and reduces the need for putty at a later stage.

2. Cut the components to length. If you are using a circular saw, use a straight timber batten to run your saw against to ensure a square cut.

3. Take the timber parts of the same size and hold them together in the vice. Ensure the marking knife lines are aligned. With a fine set on the plane, plane the ends down to the correct length. Plane towards the centre from each side of the parts so as to prevent the timber chipping. Check that you have planed each part to a peak in the centre and that you are planing square to the face of the material. Then work from the centre towards the outside edges to plane the peak down flat. Regularly check your parts for square. Repeat this step for each part of the job, including the fixing rail.

Front elevation

End elevation

Assembly
4. Take the top and place it in the vice, end up. Take one end and determine the outside and front and top edges. On the outside, about 8mm down from the top edge and 35mm in from the front and back edges, start a 40mm nail off (see diagram below). Spread adhesive on the edge to be joined, use your finger to spread the adhesive and rub it in well. Apply a second thin coat of adhesive to the joint and bring the two parts together. Nail the joint together. Try to keep the face and edges flush.

Nail positions

5. Following the same method, join the bottom to the end. Turn the box over and nail on the other end.

6. Insert the fixing rail and nail it home. Punch and putty nail heads.

Finishing and installation
7. Finish the shelf as desired. If painting your shelf, use two coats of paint, sanding between each with 180 grit sandpaper. Use a primer first to choke the timber grain and make it easier to sand. If you intend to use stain or clear lacquer, remove all excess adhesive first or the stain will not penetrate through into the timber and there will be white blotches.

8. Decide where the shelf should be fixed. If you're fixing the shelf to a masonry wall, drill two 6.5mm holes in the fixing rail about 180mm apart and 30mm down from the top edge. Position the unit on the wall, using a spirit level to make sure it is horizontal, and mark the position for drilling on the wall. Use a 6.5mm masonry bit to drill the holes in the walls, place plastic star plugs in the holes and screw the unit into position. If your walls are not solid masonry, use hollow wall anchors to fix the shelf in position, following the manufacturer's instructions and using a spirit level to be sure it is positioned horizontally.

Source:Shelving (Murdoch Books)