You can restore an old piece of furniture in a weekend if you set your mind to it.

This 1920s sideboard was basically in good condition and was certainly worth preserving.

You'll need:
6 litres methylated spirits
Steel wool: 00 and 0000
Timber Mate wood filler
Plastibond-type filler
PVA glue
Rags
300g shellac flakes
Quality 38mm brush
Furniture wax
Sandpaper: 120, 180, 240 and 400 grade
Pantyhose
Candlewax

Here's how:
1. Take a long, hard look at the piece of furniture and work out if it needs any repairs. It may have stains, sun bleaching, scratches and splits. If it's been painted, apply some paint stripper to reveal the wood. Borers infest some softwoods, and if the damage is severe one or two panels may need replacing.

2.Handles and hinges

You can remove any handles or hinges to make stripping the timber easier, or leave them in place and strip up to the edges, leaving a rim of dark wood. If there are locks and you don't have a key, take the entire lock to the locksmiths - they should be able to find or make a suitable key. Polish handles and hinges with 0 steel wool to highlight raised areas. Leave low areas tarnished.

3.Stripping

Now, strip your timber. Wear gloves and an apron as this job is messy. Soak 00 steel wool in methylated spirits and rub the surface vigorously to cut through the old finish. You can remove any oil stains with a dab of engine degreaser or a weak caustic soda solution (beware, this can burn skin), or you can sand out patches. When removing the finish around waratah motifs, use steel wool and wipe over the top of the design only. Don't try to get into crevices, as the darker finish in these areas will contrast with the surface you are preparing. This highlights the design and gives an antique look.

4.Sanding Once the piece is stripped, it's time to start sanding. Start with as fine a paper as possible - 120 grade is good. Coarser paper can leave scratches and it takes a lot of sanding to smooth the damage. If you want some aged colour to remain, sand lightly. If you want to take the timber back to its original colour, sand more deeply. Proceed to 180 then 240 papers.

5.Splits and cracks

Any splits and cracks in the timber should be glued together. Run a bead of PVA glue along the split. Use a thin spatula to work the glue into the crack or rub it in with your fingers. Get as much glue into the split as possible, then wipe off the excess with a damp rag. Clamp the separated sides together using sash cramps. Tighten until a bead of glue oozes out of the split, then wipe off the excess. Leave the glue to set overnight.
If a timber member such as the front curved section is loose, refix it with glue. Hold it in place by driving two small nails in at the corners. Punch the nails below the surface and then fill in the holes.

6. Filling

Fill scratches or dents with a filler such as Timber Mate in a suitable colour. For damaged edges, use a harder Plastibond-type filler as used in automative repairs. These can be tinted to match the timber. If you'd like the piece to have a very smooth finish, use a water-based filler (such as Timber Mate) and mix it 50:50 with water to make a cream. Rub it into the surface with a swirling motion. Leave as little on the surfaces as possible to make sanding easier.

7.Finishing

Sand the entire cabinet along the grain with 240-grade paper. Remove all dust. Cover 300g of shellac flakes with methylated spirits and stir. Wait until dissolved, then strain through pantyhose to get rid of any lumps. Apply a thin coat of shellac with the brush. Rinse the brush regularly with methylated spirits to remove any shellac build-up. After the shellac dries - about 20 minutes - sand lightly with 400-grade paper or 0000 steel wool. Apply the next coat and repeat for four coats. When dry, apply a furniture wax along the grain with 0000 steel wool again. Let dry; buff with a cotton cloth. Refit handles and hinges and rub candle wax along drawer runners.

Source:Better Homes and Gardens