Construct it in an alcove or against a wall, and include a chest of drawers to hold all the little stuff.

It's a bulky project, so get the older kids to lend a hand.

You'll need:
Materials

Item Part and size Size Material

A Tall sides/divider (3) 2068 x 550 x 16mm Melamine board
B Bases/tops (4) 1630 x 550 x 16mm Melamine board
C Cleats (10) 19 x 19 x 500mm Pine
D Shelves (5) 632 x 540 x 16mm Melamine board
E Short sides/divider (3) 518 x 550 x 16mm Melamine board
F Hanging rail 940 x 19mm diameter Chrome steel rod
G Rod sockets (2) 19 internal diameter Chrome steel
H Trim - optional (total) 19 x 19 x 7200mm Pine/maple

You'll also need: contact adhesive for gluing, 30mm and 45mm cross-head screws, wet & dry sandpaper and white snap caps. Standard, 16mm thick x 600mm wide, Melamine-coated particleboard shelving is available in sheet lengths of 1.8m and 2.4m. This unit used 8 x 2.4m sheets.

Tools
Claw hammer (570g)
Smoothing plane (no. 4)
Marking gauge
Combination square
Steel tape (3 metres)
Bevelled-edge firmer chisels (10mm, 18mm, 32mm)
Cross-cut saw (650mm long)
Tenon saw (300mm long)
Nail punch (3mm)
Set of twist drills
Set of screwdrivers (slotted, pozi, Phillips)
Oil stone
Sanding cork
Variable-speed power drill
Power saw
Spirit level
Hacksaw

Enlarge diagram

Here's how:
1. The crucial measurements are the opening where the unit will be built and the size of the chest of drawers you will use. Often walls aren't quite square, so subtract about 20mm all around - this also allows for the thickness of skirtings. Leave enough space above the chest of drawers to hang clothes. We made our unit in two sections for easy installation in a room with a ceiling height of 2.7m. Our two units were 2100mm and 550mm high, by 1630mm wide and 550mm deep, with an opening of 950mm for the drawers.

2. Cut the three tall sides (A) and a base (B). Use a power saw for the cuts, setting the blade just deep enough to cut the panels. Work with the good side (the one most likely to be seen) face down, as there is likely to be some minor chipping of the Melamine on the saw side.

3. To fix bottom and top to two sides, pre-drill for four screws per joint and countersink for the screw heads. Working with panels on their back edge, apply a small amount of contact adhesive, then screw together, making sure front edges are flush. It's best to get someone to help hold the panels.

4. From the inside edge of one side, measure 950mm along the top and bottom of carcass. Square a line across the board and use this as a guide to pre-drill and countersink the top and bottom. Glue and screw divider in place.

5. From the top, measure down both sides of the narrow opening at increments of 346mm - that is, 346mm, 692mm, 1038mm, 1384mm and 1730mm. Square a line from the back to within 50mm of the front. Cut the cleats (C) with an optional 45 degree mitre on the front ends, and paint them to match if you wish. Glue and screw the cleats to the sides with the top edges on the lines and the back flush with the rear of the panels. Use the shorter 30mm screws.

6. Cut the shelving (D) to suit. Ours is set back 10mm from the front. After pre-drilling, screw shelves to battens with two 30mm screws per cleat.

7. Get help to stand the unit in place - it will be quite floppy - and check the fit. Check with the spirit level to make sure the sides are vertical. Measure the gaps between the sides and the wall; measure the wall in three places and mark these positions. Lay down the unit, and cut offcuts of shelving or plywood to make up the thickness of packing required, and nail to wall studs or plug into masonry. Carefully slide the unit back in place and screw the sides into the packers to hold it in place.

8. Make the top unit the same way as the bottom one by screwing the top and bottom (B) to the sides and the divider (E). Fit packing pieces to the wall near where the top of the unit will be, then slide the unit in place. Screw the top unit into the top of the bottom one with 30mm screws, as well as to the packers.

9. Cut the chrome hanging rail (F) with a hacksaw so it fits the wide opening. Smooth the ends with wet & dry sandpaper and loosely fit on the rod sockets (G). Centre and space the rail from the underside of the top to allow easy removal of clothes hangers and mark screw holes at both ends. Pre-drill holes for the sockets, then install with screws provided. Finish off by pressing small snap caps into any exposed screw heads. Slide in the chest of drawers and your open robe is finished.

Tips: If fitting the wardrobe around skirting boards, you'll have to cut housings in the back of the side panels (A) and deduct the thickness of the skirting board from the depth of the bottom panel (B).
If you have 2.4m-high ceilings, and decide to build a one-piece unit, reduce the height of the wardrobe by 75mm so it can be tipped and pushed into place.
If you prefabricate the wardrobe outside the room where it will be installed, make sure you can get the finished unit through the door.

Source:Better Homes and Gardens