These handy little boxes look great and are excellent storage.

The finished size is 766mm high; 790mm wide; 400mm deep. Boxes are 250mm high; 350mm wide and 350mm deep.

You'll need:

Part	Material	Length	Width
unit top (2)	16mm MDF	790mm	400mm
unit end (2)	16mm MDF	734mm	380mm
unit divider (1)	16mm MDF	657mm	380mm
unit bottom (1)	16mm MDF	728mm	380mm
unit shelves (2)	16mm MDF	361mm	380mm
kickboard (1)	16mm MDF	718mm	66mm
unit back (1)	6mm MDF	744mm	688mm
box front/back (8)	10mm MDF	350mm	250mm
box side (8)	10mm MDF	340mm	250mm
box bottom (4)	6mm MDF	340mm	340mm

* This project uses one sheet of each thickness of MDF.

You'll also need:
50mm bullet-head nails;
30mm bullet-head nails;
20mm flat-head mails;
50mm x 8 gauge cross-head screws (6);
25mm x 8 gauge cross-head screws (6);
75mm x 8 gauge cross-head screws (4);
3 sheets 120 grit sandpaper;
3 sheets 180 grit sandpaper;
PVA adhesive;
craft adhesive;
wood filler;
piece of felt,
10cm x 120cm;
finish of choice.

Front elevation.

Section through side.

Tools
Soft pencil
Tape measure
Panel or circular saw
Tenon saw
Hole saw: 30mm (optional)
Smooting plane
Chisel
Marking gauge (optional)
Straight edge
Large square
Electric router (optional)
Router bits: 16mm straight; 10mm straight and 6mm rounding
Electric sander (optional)
Cork sanding block
Nail punch
Portable electric drill
Screwdriver (cross-head)
Chisel: 25mm (optional)
Portable circular saw (optional)
Dust mask, safety glasses and hearing protection

Here's how:
Cutting out
1. Using a pencil and measuring tape, mark out all the parts on the MDF sheet, allowing enough clearance between each piece for the cut (about 5mm). Double check that every part has been drawn.

2. Cut out the pieces using either a panel or circular saw. Trim your pieces to size using a smoothing plane or, for a better finish, use a router (running it along a straight edge). Use a square to check for accuracy on all edges and faces. As you cut each piece, use a soft pencil to number or label each part on the inside face for easy identification. Alternatively, ask your timer supplier to cut the pieces to size.

Cutting housing joints
3. Take the unit ends and decide which of them will be the left-hand end and which the right-hand end. On the inside face of each piece, measure up 66mm from the bottom and mark a line parallel to the bottom edge with a soft pencil. This line indicates the position where the kickboard will be located.

Housing joint.

4. Measure up 16mm (the thickness of the sheet material) from the first pencil line and draw another parallel line representing the bottom of the unit. Then measure the distance to the top and divide by two in order to determine the position of the shelf. Mark this position with a parallel line. To set out the housing joint for the shelf, measure 8mm either side of this line, drawing a parallel line each time.

5. Lay one marked-out end piece on a flat surface and place the divider beside it so the top edges are aligned. Using a large square, transfer the set out lines for the shelf from the end piece to the division. Turn the division over and repeat on the other side. If you don't have a large square, use a tape measure and straight edge.

6. Lay the unit bottom on a flat surface with the inside face upward and measure the length. Divide this by two to find the centre; square a line across the face. Measure 8mm either side and draw two parallel lines to mark the housing joint.

7. Cut out the housing joints using a tenon saw and chisel, or a router and 16mm straight bit.

Assembling the shelves
8. Lay the two end pieces side by side on a flat surface, and check that one is for the left end and one for the right. On the bottom of each piece, measure back 20mm from the front edge and square a line up to the bottom of the housing for the position of the kickboard.

9. Using your jigsaw or panel saw, remove this 66mm x 20mm corner from the end pieces by cutting along the line and bottom edge of the housing.

10. Round off the front and end edges of the two top pieces, using a plane and abrasive paper or a router with a 6mm rounding bit inserted. Don't round the back edge.

11. Smooth all edges and faces with 120 grit sandpaper.

12. To attach the shelf, first apply PVA adhesive to the housing joints on one end piece. On a flat surface, stand this side and one shelf on their back edges. Bring the shelf into the glued joint, ensuring it fits snugly on the bottom of the housing and that the front edges are flush. At least 40mm in from the front and back edges, skew a 30mm bullet-head nail through the bottom of the shelf into the housing at an angle so that the nail will not come through the outside. Punch the nail below the surface. Repeat this process when attaching the bottom to the end piece, ensuring that the housing joint for the divider is facing upwards.

13. Apply adhesive to the housing joint on the bottom piece and the divider. Place the divider into the housing and then fit the shelf into the housing in the divider, ensuring all joints fit well. Using 50mm bullet-head nails, nail through the bottom into the end of the divider. Nail through the shelf housing in the divider into the end of the shelf. Glue and skew nail, with 30mm bullet-head nails, the remaining shelf and end in the correct position.

14. Stand the unit upright and lay one top piece on the unit with a 20mm overhang on each end and the front. Check the divider and end pieces are parallel. Drill through the top into the ends and divider; secure the top to each piece with 50mm x 8 gauge screws. Lay the second top piece over the first, ensuring it lines up on all edges. Secure the two tops together by drilling and screwing from underneath using 25mm x 8 gauge screws. We used three across the front and three across the back, approximately 25mm in from each upright piece.

15. To attach the kickboard to the unit, drill four 4mm holes through the bottom edge of the kickboard, one approximately 50mm from each end and two evenly spaced between. Lay the unit on its back and place the kickboard in position, 5mm back from the front edge of the side pieces. Fix with 75mm screws. Glue and nail a small block of scrap timber 50mm long to the ends behind the kickboard for added strength.

16. Lay the unit down on its face on a flat surface. Measure and check the diagonals to ensure that the unit is square. Place the back in position and fix it to all edges of the unit, including the divider and shelves, using 20mm flat-head nails set approximately 40-50mm apart.

Cutting out the boxes

17. Select the front and back pieces for the boxes. Using a router with 10mm straight bit, or a circular or tenon saw and chisel, cut a rebate 5mm deep and 10mm wide into the inside face of both short edges.

Box rebate joint.

18. Cut the grooves to hold the bottom 5mm deep on the inside faces of all the front, back and side pieces. If using a router insert a 6mm bit and set the guide fence 12mm from the edge of the cutter. It's a good idea to first do this on a piece of scrap wood to check the fit.

Box bottom.

19. To make the hand holes, select one front piece and mark the centre on the top edge. Measure 50mm to the left of this point and square a line across the face. Repeat this to the right of the centre point. Measure 40mm down the face on these lines and mark. Centre a 30mm hole saw on each point and drill through, or use an electric drill with HSS bit. Join the holes together with lines at the top and bottom edge to create a long oval shape. Cut along this line with the jigsaw. Smooth the edges of the hole with abrasive paper. Repeat for all front and back pieces.

Assembling the boxes
20. Each box consists of two sides, a front, a back and a bottom. Using one side and a front, apply adhesive to the rebate joint and assemble the joint by placing the side piece into the rebate. Using 30mm bullet-head nails, nail through the side piece into the rebate joint, ensuring the grooves line up so the bottom will fit easily.

21. Repeat this process and attach the back to the remaining side. Select one half of the box and fit the bottom into the groove. Apply adhesive to the rebate joints and attach the remaining half of the box. Nail the rebate joints together.

22. Punch all nails to ensure that the joints fit tightly. Before the adhesive sets, check that the box is square by measuring the diagonals. If necessary, apply light pressure to the longer diagonal until it is square. Fill all nail holes with putty and sand the edges using 120 grit sandpaper, ensuring that all joints are flush.

Finishing
23. Apply the finish of your choice. Leave to dry.

24. Use craft adhesive to glue 10mm wide strips of felt to the base of the box sides. This will help the boxes slide easily and protect the shelf.

Source: Storage (Murdoch Books)